Daniel Haaf
Kategorispecialist
Updated: 20 May 2026
With the right lens on your camera it is easier to take the photographs you want. There are many variants to choose from, so it is important to choose the right one. Here you will find tips and suggestions so you can choose correctly when you buy lenses for your camera.
Find the right lens for your system camera with our easy-to-read guide. There is a lot to consider and we have tried to gather all the information that might be useful.
There is a whole variety of different camera mounts today. Most manufacturers have their own solution for how lenses should be mounted on their cameras, and normally you cannot attach lenses from one system to another without an adapter. Some camera manufacturers also use several different systems, so it is important to choose precisely when you buy lenses.
Here are some of the more common camera mounts today.
Image: Unsplash, ShareGrid
The camera’s sensor is the part that captures the light passing through the lens and converts it into an image.
Sensor size varies depending on the camera model, and it is one of the most important factors affecting image quality, light sensitivity and depth of field.
The most common sensor sizes today are APS-C and the larger full-frame variant, where full-frame generally provides better low-light performance and greater potential for shallow depth of field.
Lenses are designed to work optimally with a specific sensor size.
This means they are adapted to cover the entire sensor area and deliver the best possible image quality without vignetting (dark corners in the image) or reduced sharpness. Choosing the right combination of camera and lens is crucial for getting the best images.
Important to consider as a first-time buyer is to think about future needs. Buying an APS-C camera and then switching to full-frame can mean significant costs when the old lenses have to be replaced. Therefore consider choosing a camera that not only fits your current needs but also makes it easy to upgrade in the long term.
Lenses are classified according to their focal length.
Extreme wide angle (approx. 8–16 mm). Up to a 180° field of view with strong barrel distortion. A specialised lens used for architectural photography, astronomy and similar applications.
Short focal length (approx. 14–35 mm). Large field of view which is good for landscapes, architecture and indoor photography. Lenses with short focal lengths often have large apertures for high light transmission, from f/2.8 down to f/1.4 in some cases.
Around 35–50 mm. Similar to the eye’s perspective, a natural image without noticeable distortion. A popular first choice appreciated by many photographers. There are many cheap and good options to choose from – you can rarely go wrong.
Approx. 70–200 mm (and longer). Narrow field of view, magnifies subjects and compresses perspective. A very popular and versatile lens for portraits and sports. A classic often preferred by wedding photographers.
Large zoom range, e.g. 18–200 mm or 24–300 mm. A versatile choice for those who only want a single lens or travel a lot. Image quality is often a compromise to reduce size and weight, especially in lower price ranges.
Often 60–105 mm. For close-up shots with high magnification and very short minimum focusing distance. Generally offers very high detail reproduction and is popular among portrait photographers. Macro lenses often have a fixed focal length but are also available as zooms.
The focal length
Is specified in millimetres and refers to the lens’s magnification.
Short focal lengths are good for landscape and indoor photography while long focal lengths are more suited to sports and portraits.
The focal length stated on the lens refers to use with a camera that has a full-frame sensor. In that case a 35 millimetre lens is exactly that. If you use the same lens on a camera with a smaller sensor, for example APS-C, you must account for a crop factor.
Image: Unsplash, Graham Mansfield
Zoom or prime
A zoom lens has moving elements that allow you to change the focal length. Prime lenses are fixed to a specific focal length.
The advantage of a zoom lens is that you get a wider range to work with, but the drawback is that image sharpness is often somewhat lower than with prime lenses. Zoom lenses are perfect for those who only want a single lens and do not want (or cannot) zoom with their feet.
A prime lens often has a larger aperture that lets in more light for smoother background blur and better shooting in poor light conditions. They are also generally smaller and lighter than zoom lenses. Many appreciate primes for their convenience and the image quality they deliver.
The aperture
The aperture controls how much light is allowed in through the lens’s front element. The aperture value is given as an f-number and normally ranges from f/1.0 to f/22 depending on the lens. Typically a largest aperture is given down to a smallest aperture.
The maximum aperture determines how large the front element is and also largely the weight of the lens. A very large maximum aperture requires larger glass elements, which increases both the front element size and the total cost. In general, lenses with a large maximum aperture have slightly higher image quality than lenses with a smaller aperture.
Large apertures let in more light which reduces depth of field so that the background becomes blurred.
It emphasises the subject and gives it a feeling of standing out from the background, which is particularly useful in portrait photography.
Large apertures also allow you to shoot at lower ISO and faster shutter speeds in lower light conditions, which helps image quality.
Small apertures let in less light which makes the image appear sharper, especially towards the edges.
This is desirable when you want as much as possible in the image to be sharp, for example in landscape and architectural photography.
Weather sealing
If the lens will be used in tougher environments that are dusty or humid it is good to have weather sealing that protects the optics. This reduces the risk of moisture damage or dust getting into the glass elements of the lens. Weather sealing requires the camera body to also be sealed to be fully weatherproof.
Stabilisation
Lens stabilisation allows you to take sharper images with long shutter speeds. It helps when there is little light and you are using long focal length lenses. Sometimes the stabilisation sits in the camera body so it is not needed in the lens. In some cases the stabilisation in the lens and the camera body can work together for even better stabilisation effect.
Bear in mind that manufacturers use different designations for stabilisation in lenses. Here are some letter combinations you can look for:
It is worth noting that stabilisation is not good in all situations. If you place the camera on a tripod you must turn off stabilisation in both lens and camera. Furthermore, manufacturers’ stabilisation variants are not equally good. Nikon’s first generation VR technology is not as effective as newer VR II, while a Tamron lens may be better than either Nikon option.
Image: Unsplash, William Thomas
Minimum focus distance
Indicates the shortest distance between an object and the lens’s front element before the camera can no longer focus correctly. Macro lenses have very short minimum focus distances so you can get really close. Ordinary lenses can in some cases have a minimum focus distance of 100 centimetres or longer.
To get closer to a subject you can trick the lens by using a close-up filter. It reduces image quality slightly but allows you to get closer to the subject. You can also use extension tubes that are placed between the lens and the camera to increase magnification.
Filters
A filter is mounted on the front of the lens to protect the front element from impacts and to provide various effects. Lenses often cost many thousands and with a simple UV filter that screws onto the front you reduce the risk of dirt, knocks and scratches that can ruin the lens. Make sure to choose high-quality filters that do not affect image quality. The filter size is specified in millimetres and is the same as the front element diameter. Common sizes range from 37 millimetres to 105 millimetres.
Here are some examples of common filters for lenses:
Lens hood
Most lenses come with a lens hood, either built-in or attached to the front of the lens. The hood prevents stray light that can cause glare in images. It is also an excellent protection if you drop the lens or bump the front. Combine it with a good UV filter and the risk of damage is reduced even further.